Bite by Bite
Conquering My Culinary Bucket List One Dish at a Time

When it doesn’t turn out, try pivoting

Posted

We’re all familiar with the phrase ‘You win some, you lose some’ and while I understand the expression originated in the early 1900s among gamblers who bet on sports, it is definitely an apt phrase regarding the practice of cooking.

As I’ve written here before, I have no formal training in cooking. I guess the seeds were initially planted by my mother and grandmother, when as a young child I stood at their sides watching them cook. I’ve picked up many tips from friends, but in recent years whatever cooking knowledge I have has been gleaned from books, TV shows, blogs, podcasts and just good old-fashioned trial and error. And just like anything else, it takes practice and repetition over time.

My own practice, repetition, trial and error have resulted in a mixed bag. There have been times when I made things that turned out exquisitely perfect and there have been times when the result was akin to the figurative dumpster fire. I’m happy to say the successes have far outweighed the disasters and I’m blessed to have a loving, patient husband who has never been critical of my cooking even on those infrequent occasions when the result wasn’t fit for man or beast.

So in the spirit of keeping it real, I’m sharing with you today about something I made recently that was disappointing, not through any fault of mine, the recipe or the recipe writer, but just circumstances.

I became familiar with Julia Turshen, a food writer, cookbook author and food equity advocate, some time last year and began reading her blog, “Keep Calm & Cook On,” on Substack. I quickly became delighted with her simple, yet amazing, handwritten diagrams that are basically formulas for making everything you can imagine, in an interchangeable “pieces of the puzzle” type fashion. She has a new cookbook out, “What Goes With What - 100 Recipes, 20 Charts, Endless Possibilities” that I received for Christmas.

I’d read about two-thirds of the book before trying my hand at any of the recipes. But one cold winter day I decided to make what she calls frozen-fish chowder. It appeared to be fairly straightforward and just sounded warm and comforting. It calls for a pound of frozen cod fillets (or any firm white fish) which I had no trouble finding locally. I’ve eaten many types of fish over the years and am aware that there are different flavors and textures for each. In retrospect, I don’t know if I had ever eaten cod before or not. Nonetheless, the particular cod in this dish was so “fishy-tasting” that it was quite off putting. We soldiered through and ate it, but were disappointed.

However, the actual broth was incredibly good – so good that I intend to pivot and try it again, next time using either halibut or perhaps some shrimp. I’ll keep you posted on the results.



Frozen-Fish Chowder

By Julia Turshen

  • ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 yellow onion, chopped
  • 4 large celery stalks, finely diced
  • 1 teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning (optional)
  • Kosher salt
  • 4 cups seafood or fish broth (or chicken or vegetable)
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • 1 pound frozen cod fillets (or any firm white fish; no need to defrost)
  • 1 large Russet potato, peeled and diced
  • 1 16-oz. package frozen corn kernels (no need to defrost; or kernels from four ears of fresh corn)
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • For serving: minced fresh chives and oyster crackers

Place the oil in a large heavy pot (such as a Dutch oven) over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, Old Bay, if using, and a large pinch of salt and cook, stirring now and then, until the vegetables are beginning to soften, about 5 minutes.

Add the broth and cream. Turn the heat to high and bring the mixture just to a boil. Season to taste with salt if needed. Add the fish, potatoes, and corn and bring the mixture to a boil. Immediately turn the heat down to low and simmer, uncovered, until the fish is cooked through and the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. As you stir the soup, the fish should break up into pieces. If it doesn’t, just simmer a little longer so it flakes more easily, and then give it all a good stir.

Season the chowder to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot, with minced chives and oyster crackers scattered over each bowl.